Make Italy Yours

A blog of Italian Culture and Nature

Tag: An Englishwoman in Italy blog

The Englishwoman visits Offagna

Hill towns of Le Marche, Italy

I’ve been silent for some time because my family was keeping me busy. I am freer now, and looking forward to sharing more about life in Le Marche.

Offagna is a good place to visit if you have just been to  IKEA and want to enjoy somewhere uniquely Marchigiano. Or if you are touring it’s convenient for Ancona, but a different world.

We drove along winding hilly roads with breathtaking views on either side, and adopted our usual technique of not studying the map but parking just under the walls – there’s always somewhere – going through the gate, and walking up towards the Rocca, or castle. Most  hill towns have them and when we took our girls round them, we tended to grade them according to the size of the Rocca. Corinaldo hasn’t got one at all, Mondavio’s is one of the best, and Offagna’s is impressive too.

The…

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The Englishwoman visits the Leopardi Library/Biblioteca Leopardi

Libraries and rare books in Le Marche

This library has survived intact for over 200 years thanks to Giacomo Leopardi (1798-1837), one of Italy’s best-loved poets. He spent the greater part of his childhood and youth reading in this library, the creation of his father, Monaldo Leopardi.

The Italian class system is not the same as ours; however, I think it is safe to say that the Leopardi were what we would call gentry, and quite comfortably off. Monaldo was an “avid book collector” (p 363 of Canti / GiacomoLeopardi ; translated and annotated by JonathanGalassi. London : Penguin, c2010). In fact he spent so much money on this library that his wife had to sell her jewellery to restore the family fortunes.

I like Monaldo because he was more than a bibliophile. His instincts were those of a librarian; in other words, he wanted to share his books with everyone.

To children friends citizens Monaldo Leopardi [gives] the library in the year 1812 To children friends citizens Monaldo Leopardi…

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The Englishwoman admires Corinaldo’s Infiorata and walks in the Corpus Christi procession 

Hill towns of Le Marche, Italy

On the first Sunday in June we arrived at our little local church,  Sant’Apollonia, only a bit late (the Chelsea Fan has observed that Mass and football matches always begin on time in Italy), as usual, only to find it closed.We thought there must be a big service at San Francesco, the biggest church in town, at 11.15, so off we drove, only to find that all the car parks were full and we’d have to park outside the Crai supermarket and walk up to the Corso.

When we reached the  Corso we found crowds assembling and obviously waiting for something. Fortunately at this point we bumped into Signora Chiara, the widow of the late great Fausto of I Tigli restaurant. She explained to me what was going on. Of course, I had forgotten, it was the feast of Corpus Christi (Body of Christ), or Corpus Domini, as they say…

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